My dearest rose buds, I am truly delighted to share with you my whimsical trip to Bath which I ventured on last week with my mother. I have created a little Regency era inspired, visiting guide so that if you plan to journey there in the future, you know where to look for all the best Bridgerton and Austen-inspired locations!
The Regency Era began towards the end of England’s Georgian era, when George III was deemed unfit to rule. A regent, George IV ascended the throne and this particular period occupied the monarchy from 1811-1820. It is this period of time which fascinates so many as it was also the age of elegance, fine arts and grand architecture – most notably, its sense of high fashion and refinement, with high empire waist lines, spencer jackets grand balls and the emergence of the serving of afternoon tea.
Bath emerged as one of the highly-coveted, spa towns of the Georgian and Regency era. It is the location where an abundance of families would venture, not only to “take the waters”, believed to be a method to restore ones health but also for the coming out season, in which young ladies were presented to society to be courted and hopefully engaged to be married. It had previously been an unremarkable Elizabethan town but was rebuilt in the elegant Palladian style by the father-and-son architectural partnership of the Woods.
Jane Austen was acutely aware of this tradition and set two of her novels, Northanger Abbey and Persuasion, in Bath. Living in the town from 1801-1806, residing in various locations, Austen had an uneasy relationship with the city. In her novels she mentions the infamous sites which you can still visit today, including The Royal Crescent, The Circus, Queen Square, Milsom Street, Pulteney Bridge, the Upper Assembly Rooms, the Pump Rooms, the Guildhall, and Sydney Gardens.
During our first visit to the infamous spa-town, we stayed in the Macdonald Spa Hotel, a beautiful stone throw away from the bustle of the city. My mother and I found the architecture of the hotel and decor of its interiors completely captivating and the surroundings so harmonious that we would highly recommend it to anyone planning their first visit.
On our first half-day, we decided to remain closer to the hotel as we were rather exhausted from travelling for most of the day so we decided to visit the Holburne Museum, which we were glad to see was just down the road from our Hotel, near Austen’s home at Sydney Place in the Sydney Pleasure Gardens.
Alongside being the home of Lady Danbury in Bridgerton (2020), the Museum is the home to a collection of decorative arts built around Sir William Holburne. The collection includes works from Gainsborough, Ramsay and Zoffany and I was particularly struck by….
Once we had admired the artwork in the Holburne Museum, wandered through the pleasure gardens and taken cream tea, we decided to return to the hotel and relax before dinner…
On our second day, we ventured over to the infamous Pump Room. Neighbouring the Roman Baths, the Pump Room is named after the water pumped into the room from the baths’ hot springs. Its creation began in 1789, and although the Romans bathed in the city’s water, Georgian England took to “taking” (drinking) the waters to remedy ill-health.
You can now take tea in the Pump Room and my mother and I decided to enjoy their morning bakery together upon our first visit. Whilst I sampled with dreamy, luxurious victoria sponge, my mother tried the infamous Bath Bun which is a staple for the city.The Bath bun is a sweet roll made from a milk-based yeast dough with crushed sugar sprinkled on top after baking. Visiting the Pump Room is truly a delightful experience. As you enter, you encounter tall, Corinthian columns, glittering chandelier and magnificent paintings bedecking each wall. We even had the pleasure of experiencing a pianist playing during out time there – a true delight!
Once we had basked in the delights of the Pump Room, my mother and I wandered over to No. 40 Gay St, home to Bath’s Jane Austen Centre. You are greeted at the door by a gentleman clothed in full regency attire and as you step inside, you feel as though you have been transported to the Regency era of Austen’s novels.
The Centre has the friendliest staff, all dressed in accurate period clothing and each part of the museums experience details how Bath influenced Jane’s life and writing.
You can even dress-up in Regency clothing if you wish which is especially fun, whether you wish to wear a bonnet or an iconic spencer jacket. I felt so inspired after my trip to the Centre, and of course, before we left I couldn’t resist purchasing a few items from their gift shop…
We enjoyed a picnic lunch in Royal Victoria park, complete with jam & banana sandwiches, we gazed at the infamous Palladian architecture of the Royal Crescent (designed by John Wood) and for an afternoon treat, we visited the beautiful tea-shop, Sweet Little Things.
Nestled on the corner of the Lower Borough Walls, Sweet Little Things, is a darling little bakery and tea-room serving the sweet treats of your dreams!
Cascading, delicate pastel blooms adorn the interior & exteriors of the tea-shop and as the weather was so warm during our visit, we decided to be seated outside. I ordered their lemon and raspberry cupcake, (with tea of course) and it was a sheer delight.
Also, if you would like something more substantial to nibble on, they also serve Brunch and Lunch dishes on their menu, and may I say, the buttermilk pancakes sound so dreamy!!
On our second, full-day in Bath was spent at their beautiful Fashion Museum and Assembly Rooms.
The Assembly Rooms were designed by John Wood the Younger in 1769, and became the centre for fashionable Georgian society in Bath, once depicted as “the most noble and elegant of any in the kingdom…”
Groups would gather for balls and public events and they became a key focus of the season in bath where mothers would bring their daughters to Bath to be presented to the world, hoping to gain a marriage alliance. The Assembly Rooms frequently appear in Austen’s writings, as she recounts in Northanger Abbey & Persuasion
“Mrs Allen was so long in dressing, that they did not enter the ball-room till late. The season was full, the room crowded, and the two ladies squeezed in as well as they could. As for Mr Allen, he repaired directly to the card-room, and left them to enjoy a mob by themselves.”
“Sir Walter, his two daughters, and Mrs Clay, were the earliest of all their party at the rooms in the evening; and as Lady Dalrymple must be waited for, they took their station by one of the fires in the Octagon Room.”
During our visit we saw… the Ball room, the Tea room, Octagon and Card Room.
Following the splendour of the Assembly Rooms, we went to Bath’s Fashion Museum.
Housed inside the Assembly Rooms, the Museum possesses a dreamy collection of contemporary and historic clothing, dating from 17-18th century gowns all the way up to modern garments from Dior and Giambattista Valli.
It was a delightful experience to get up close to some of the garments which inspire me, particularly those dating from the 18th century such as the robe a la francaise and _
After exploring this captivating museum, my mother and I journeyed back to our hotel to relax and indulge in the Bath Spa Hotel’s afternoon tea.
I booked this afternoon in advance and I was thoroughly impressed, not only with the presentation of the tea but also the taste!
Alongside the usual finger sandwiches, we were presented with the most dainty array of scones (which were delightfully served warm) and four elegant desserts which included…
Austen’s Bath
“They arrived in Bath. Catherine was all eager delight; – her eyes were here, there, everywhere, as they approached its fine and striking environs, and afterwards drove through those streets which conducted them to the hotel. She was come to be happy, and she felt happy already.” ~ Northanger Abbey
“The season was full, the room crowded, and the two ladies squeezed in as well as they could. As for Mr Allen, he repaired directly to the card-room, and left them to enjoy a mob by themselves. With more care for the safety of her new gown than for the comfort of her protégé, Mrs Allen made her way through the throng of men by the door, as swiftly as the necessary caution would allow; Catherine, however, kept close at her side, and linked her arm too firmly within her friend’s to be torn asunder by any common effort of a struggling assembly.” ~ Northanger Abbey
Austen’s Letter to Cassandra, May 5th 1801, “The first view of Bath in fine weather does not answer my expectations; I think I see more distinctly through rain. The sun was got behind everything, and the appearance of the place from the top of Kingsdown was all vapour, shadow, smoke, and confusion.”
I hope this little guide to Bath may inspire you in some way…
I’m sending lots of love to you all,
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