My heart is forever falling in love with haute couture and gazing at the latest collections never fails to whisk me away to enchanting worlds. I always imagine wandering around in gowns that can transform me into a princess… ♡
It was rather difficult to select my favourites from the array of dreamy collections from Paris Couture Week, New York Fashion Week, London Fashion Week, Milan Fashion Week and Paris Fashion Week. Nevertheless, I have managed to curate a mini guide to fashion week which I hope will inspire you.
First we shall delve into Paris Haute Couture Week (arguably my favourite), where we experience the crème de la créme of fashion week. The most chic individuals of Paris flock to take their seats at the dreamiest Haute Couture shows. It is here where one can experience the delights of Dior and charms of Chanel at the infamous Grand Palais… ♡
Inspired by the Shirley Mclaine film, What A Way To Go (1964), Ulyana Sergeenko’s Spring/Summer collection pays homage to Countess Mona von Bismark.
The countess was a lady of high society who was friends with Truman Capote and adored pink!
This image of opulence is strengthened by the fashion shows lavish location – Bismarck’s Parisian mansion, a setting swathed in shades of pink. The pieces depict the height of luxury; ruffles and tulle are in abundance and a subtle feline theme is sewn throughout… ♡
Hobeika whisks us away to a distant paradise – the shores of Sardinia are the inspiration for this collection, as we receive illuminations of the turquoise Mediterranean and the glistening sensuality of golden sand.
The Lebanese couturier has created a blissful collection filled with exotic designs from a distant land; Hobeika’s two sources of inspiration are “the force of nature and the ecstasy of freedom and the philosophy of entertainment.”
“At the core of this collection is a message of hope focusing on purity: a white canvas to write a new and inspiring future, of joy to counter the darkness and celebrate the dynamism of energetic youth” is how Chakra describes his latest couture collection.
Chakra alludes to this sense of purity through the lens of bridal beauty. The stand-out piece is a cropped tutu dress with organza and floral embellishments, which float out like a veil.
Elegant shades of white suddenly transition into a bold plethora of colours ~ aquamarines, fuchsia, corals, lilac and baby pinks in tulle, silk and chiffon fabrics; this diverse colour palette is a delight for the eyes!
Ralph and Russo present an flourish of pastel-colours reminiscent of a spring-dalliance, letting in light to a new period for the brand at its 10-year-anniversary couture show.
Described as “Part disco, part garden party, part gala affair” by Savoir Flair, aptly depicts the latest collection from the London-based brand.
Elements of texture were epitomised through feathers and ruffles…
A girlish innocence is reflected by the light colour palette and black bows perched delicately on top of each models neat coiffeur.
Giambattista Valli’s inclusive showcase of his SS20 Couture collection at the Jeu de Paume in Paris featured influences from the Amalfi Coast.
Photographs and memories of Marella Agnelli, Lee Radziwill, and Jackie Onassis provide the inspiration as Valli dreams up the 1960/70s with a modern twist. Here we experience a world of feathered masks, extravagant fuchsia frills, swooshes of capes and drapes, yards of tulle trains, mad bubbles, balloons, and bows.
The most coveted-couture collection of all, inside the iconic Grand Palais, the CHANEL SS20 Haute Couture collection is inspired by Coco’s youth at the orphanage in Aubazine.
The monochromatic theme mirrors the black and white uniform she would be required to wear and the austere presence of the nuns who looked after a young Gabrielle and taught her to sew.
The soft, pastel woven and sequinned fabric evoke the chapels stained glass windows and the stone walls of the convent are represented in the trellises of embroidery tracing the shape of the Peter Pan collars.
The collection illustrates an ode to a Parisian school-girl chic with Claudine-collared coats and blouses paired with white socks and black shoes.
Alexis Mabille’s collection for spring is devoid of overwhelming colours – the palette is calm, pure and innocent. A flurry of snowy white ensembles made their debut as Mabille transported us to an icy palace fit for a Snow Queen at Sotheby’s Paris headquarters.
Mabille describes his process as “a feel for purity freed from colour…”, the approach to his spring/summer collection echoes the toiles the petite mains work upon whilst constructing a piece of couture.
Elie Saab is a couturier who never fails to leave me enamoured by his designs…
Saab casts us into a world of grandeur and I’m certain that every person who is lucky enough to attend his magnificent shows are left amazed by what he creates.
The narrative of the collection is inspired by a tale about a woman who “receives a letter summoning her to Chapultepec Castle in Mexico City; suspended between dream and reality, she wanders about the place, clad in the magnificent couture concoctions in which, “the regal past of both Europe and imperial Mexico are intertwined.”
Saab creates an opulent dream… with delicate embroidery, a glittering of florals and pearls, the gliding of ruffles and rosettes and of course, bows, add to the elegant, princess-like charm Saab appears to have intended for this collection. The intricacy of the design and flourishes of gold detailing add to this vision of regality…
Walking into a winter wonderland as a snow angel is the perfect way to describe Guo Pei’s SS20 collection. Pei took her inspiration from the snowy Himalayas, as she illuminates… “what I’m presenting in the show is just my own interpretation of this mysterious, spiritually powerful place,” “when I was young, in my heart haute couture was like the Himalayas, the pinnacle of the pyramid for me.”
Pei’s penchant for antique textiles is communicated perfectly through this collection – “I wanted to use textiles as antique as possible to give a sense of permanence.” Pei has sourced rare obi fabrics from Japan and re-shaped rare silk kimono belts by cutting and reassembling them onto her pieces.
The garments for her “snow goddesses” are created through a rich fabric which has been cut into sleeved-capes and imperial manteaus lined with white tulle which resemble a soft-snowy white fur. After seeing this collection I am now longing for my own pair of snow boots.
I always look forward to what Paolo Sebastian has dreamed up for his latest couture collection – he encapsulates all my fairytale dreams come true… who can ever forget the Disney-inspired, Once Upon A Dream collection?
“Inspired by Botticelli’s painting Primavera and illuminating the beauty of spring and the infinite rebirth of nature, this collection captures the mystique of the three graces and the organic beauty they bestow…”
“As an allegory to the lush growth of spring, intricate seam-work suggests the formation of petals while voluminous ruffles and soft, floaty swing dresses bring luxury and romance to the collection.
“Printed silk organza captures the beauty of the hydrangea flower, mimicking its dégradé hues and antique patterning.”
Oscar de la Renta’s Spring 2020 RTW collection explores the brands Latin American heritage. There are two stunning, stand-out pieces which I couldn’t resist sharing with you. The first is a layered satin evening gown adorned with a statement bow. The second is another layered piece which consists of a delicate tutu tulle skirt.
I’m relatively new to the designer Lela Rose but I have fallen in love with her use of feminine silhouettes and the pastel shades that appear in her designs. Rose showcased her latest collection in a West Village shop in NYC which she transformed into a floral haven. Florals are one of Roses’ favourite motifs and it wasn’t surprising that at the flower-filled shop she baked shortbread cookies pressed with pansies and daffodils to match her dresses! The subtle elegance from this collection is so stunning to behold. A piece that I am smitten with is the floor-length sateen pink gown which reminds me of Princess Aurora.
Shrimps has evoked their signature, vintage style within its SS20 RTW collection. I’m completely heart-eyed over their miniature pearl adorned bag and bow brooch!
Ballerina wraps and pretty pink coats are prevalent in Temperley London’s Fall RTW collection. The collection is loosely dedicated to dance and I can see this with one of their ballet-inspired looks. The evening wear is utterly divine as we preview a set of elegant flower embellished gowns.
The lightness and freshness of spring is expressed in Luisa Beccaria’s SS20 RTW collection.
Staging a game of badminton at the Palazzo Reale courtyard, Beccaria presented an array of light, angelic summer pieces which I have fallen in love with.
I can’t resist the elegant swathes of tulle, fil coupe and embroidered organza…
For summer we have elegant floral gowns that float along like a summer breeze…
For spring we preview delicate pieces of broderie anglaise and scalloped dresses…
Saving the best for last, I was completely enamoured with Moschino’s nod to the most regal of them all, Marie Antoinette.
The brand never fails to surprise me and surpass all expectations! Watching one of their shows must be akin to experiencing a piece of theatre unfolding before your very eyes!
For his Fall RTW collection, Jeremy Scott attempted to communicate the plight of the 1780s in a modern-day context…
“Well on the geopolitical spectrum, thinking about the 1780s and what’s going on today globally: Are the Hong Kong protests against an oppressive government? In Chile they’re protesting against a rise in subway fares; obviously my home country’s gotta lotta shit goin’ on, and y’all Brex-exiting…there’s a lot happening.”
“And thinking about that,” he added, “the turmoil is very similar in a way to…” To “Let them eat…?” he was asked. “Moschino!” he answered.
The princess-inspired aesthetic is palpable with his cake-based finale garment which is a masterpiece!
Exaggerated fluted out skirts mirror the garments worn by royalty to fortify their wealth and stature; the grand hairdos mimic Marie Antoinette’s; the plethora of pink , bows and frills make my heart so happy and the powder puff and macaron purses are now on my wish list!
Giambattista Valli’s vision of femininity is given a modern edge for his fall RTW collection.
Valli adds a masculine flair to his princess-like pieces…
The abundance of cute black bows adorning the headpieces expresses a vision of effervescent, girly charm!
The bows also make an appearance on a stunning pink gown which adds a statement to an otherwise simple dress…
The ensemble which immediately stood out to me was the light pink cape trench coat with pearls and oversized beads ~ so chic!
Georges Hobeika’s FW20 collection takes us to a lavish soirée in Monte Carlo. “The notorious flamboyance of Monaco evenings is expressed by an anthology of silhouettes designed for the highest fashion pleasures and in exaltation of the most glamorous casino nights.”
Hobeika never fails to amaze with a star-studded set of pink pieces that epitomise all things pretty; feathers, tulle and tufted frills are in abundance and I could imagine wearing some of these pieces to a party at Gatsby’s.
Virginie Viard’s F/W collection for CHANEL encapsulates a vision of freedom. Viard drew inspiration from the sense of emancipation a horse-rider feels when their horse gallops on through an open landscape. This collection follows CHANEL’s classic code of conduct – the strings of pearls, cream prim-and-proper tweed sets, whilst embracing the modernity – most notably the introduction Chanel monogrammed tights!
“Viard took her inspiration from a turn-of-the-1980s photograph of Karl Lagerfeld and his sometime muse Anna Piaggi, both dressed in the height of Edwardian-revival finery.”
The heritage of horses is closely woven within the fabric of CHANEL’s history – Gabriel herself was a keen rider and famously fell in love with the polo player, Boy Capel.
I truly hope you have enjoyed reading my detailed fashion week guide! I’d love to know what you’re heart-eyed over and what your favourite collection from the shows I’ve shared… ♡
I’m sending lots of love to you all,